3 Days in Baku: a travel guide to Azerbaijan’s capital

Shirvanshah Palace with Baku Flame Towers in the background

Baku wasn’t originally part of my plans for this trip. I was supposed to head straight to Nakhchivan, Azerbaijan’s isolated exclave between Armenia, Iran and Turkey, but I found myself…

View of the Terek River in Vladikavkaz with Stolovaya Gora in Ingushetia and the equestrian statue of General Issa Pliyev

24 Hours in Vladikavkaz: The Perfect One-Day Itinerary

Vladikavkaz is one of those Russian cities that is easy to overlook, and one I keep coming back to. It’s the first major city after the Verkhny Lars-Kazbegi border crossing…

Mountain road near Posof on the way to the Türkgözü-Vale border between Turkey and Georgia

Crossing the Turkey-Georgia Border at Türkgözü-Vale: My Experience at this small mountain border

Crossing from Turkey into Georgia is usually associated with the busy Sarp-Sarpi border near Batumi. But there is a lesser-known land crossing between the two countries, further east: Türkgözü-Vale. That’s…

Ishak Pasha Palace overlooking the landscape near Doğubeyazıt in eastern Turkey

The Turkish Caucasus: Exploring Kars, Ani and the Ararat Borderlands

Eastern Turkey is one of the least visited parts of the country, and one of the most fascinating. As part of my journey across the Caucasus, travelling from Nakhchivan to…

Trucks and travellers crossing the no-man's-land between the Turkey and Nakhchivan border checkpoints

How to cross the Turkey-Nakhchivan border at Dilucu-Sadarak

As someone slightly obsessed with borderlands and the Caucasus, I’d been wanting to cross the Turkey-Nakhchivan border for a very long time. The Dilucu-Sadarak crossing is the only land border…

Georgian border post at the Verkhny Lars–Kazbegi border crossing on the Tbilisi to Grozny route

How to travel from Tbilisi to Grozny by marshrutka

Travelling from Tbilisi to Grozny overland and by public transport is totally possible in 2026, and it’s fairly easy. The most straightforward route is to travel from Tbilisi to Vladikavkaz,…